Part I

Part II

When I left off, I had stripped a head bolt hole and was told a Heli-Coil would fix it, but I had to pull the head to install it. I had checked a few things on YouTube, CumminsForum.com, Mopar1973Man.com, and the FSM, so I thought it was within my abilities. I have no formal training in mechanical work, all I know is self taught from experience. This was a step up from all I had done in the past, so I didn’t want to do it unless I knew for sure that was the only option.

 

In an effort to avoid pulling the head, I bought a long tap to try to clean the threads. First I put grease in the side slots to capture any shavings, then I ran it down, being careful to line it up so it engaged the threads and not create new ones. It seemed to go in nicely, so I blasted the hole with brake cleaner followed by compressed air. Then with bated breath I put the head bolt in. It started to tighten! Then sure enough, it spun loose. I didn’t think it would work, but I was really hoping it would.

 

Looks like I would have to do the Heli-Coil. I didn’t know what one was, so once again had to turn to YouTube. It is a coiled-wire thread insert that creates its own screw threads. I would have to drill the hole a little larger, tap it for the Heli-Coil, screw the insert in, and then the headbolt would screw into the Heli-Coil. Seems easy enough, once I pulled the head off.

 

I already had the exhaust manifold, fuel lines, and VP44 injection pump off.  Luckily I had not put them back on yet. I wanted to wait until I had the gaskets to actually remove the head, and I also wanted Cummins gaskets. I ordered through Geno’s Garage, they specialize in Dodge Ram parts, and was given a date of June 15. In July I called them and was told it got pushed back to August 15. This surprised me, as I had never had any issues with receiving items from them in the past. I was told they receive the shipping info straight from Cummins and there was nothing they could do. They offered to switch from Cummins to Mahle which they had in stock, but I wasn’t sure, so I decided to wait. I was then told September 15th. I finally received them August 28th. Yay?

They showed up already?

Finally arrived

 

First thing I did was drain the radiator and disconnect the upper hose. Next, I wanted to remove all of the fuel injectors. I could leave them in, but would risk damaging them on reinstallation. To remove them, I used a puller on the crossover tubes that press into the injectors, then I used another puller to remove the injectors. These parts were added to the garbage bag layout in the corner, also in order of the cylinder they belonged to. Then I removed all of the push rods, and added them to the collection. For the rear most push rods, I had to remove the wipers and the plastic cowl for access to holes in the body the rods came out through.

Laid out in cylinder order

Parts collection

To remove the head, I would need to purchase an engine hoist. The head weighs about 150lbs and there is no way to pick it up without one. I bought one from Eastwood and put it together. I then removed all of the headbolts, hooked up the hoist and lifted the head off.

Did not look like 350,000 miles on it

Everything looks good

 

The gasket was still in good shape and the engine itself looked good also. The cross hatchings in the cylinder were still there and I saw no signs of scuffing. I put clean rags in each cylinder to cut down on the amount of debris that would get in them. I then drilled the bad hole out to a larger size, and screwed in the Heli-Coil.

I took the head to a machine shop to get it checked and it passed the pressure test, but it was a little warped so they ground it flat. This was another $300. While it was gone, I prepared the block. I used 3M bristle discs on my air die grinder to clean the gasket surface. With high RPM and low pressure it knocked off all the remaining gasket material and gave me a nice shiny surface. then I took an air nozzle to the block and cleaned it with brake fluid.

 

I ay never use this hoist again

Head on the hoist

 

Nice and shiny!

Heli-Coil in and block cleaned

Now it was time to put the head back on. The block has 2 little dowels for aligning the gasket and head. I placed the gasket, then lowered the head onto the block. This is where the hoist was really worth the money. I lowered it a little, moved the hoist a little, and kept repeating this until the head settled in place. Now I could breathe again.

 

I didn’t want to put the PDD headbolts back in. There was nothing wrong with them and they work fine, but if I stripped another hole, my truck might become a lawn ornament. Instead I went with ARP head studs, another $450. I put them all in their respective holes and then had to torque down the nuts. This is a three step process 40-80-125 ft-lbs is tedious when done 26 times.

 

Starting to look like a working engine again

Head Studs Installed

 

While I had the injectors out I decided to clean them, they are mechanical injectors that shoot fuel when the VP44 sends them pressure. They are simple to tear apart and each one has one shim inside. After the fourth one, I found an extra shim in the tray. I went back and tore the first ones I did apart, assuming I stupidly forgot to put a shim back in one. NOPE, they all had their shims. Apparently they were rebuilt once and a couple of them had extra shims.(I found one more after I cleaned the last one, no idea which one it came from). So I could either pay a local Diesel shop $200 to pop test and rebuild my injectors, or spend $350 for 100HP over injectors from Diesel Auto Power. So I bought new ones. This project is not cheap.

 

Are you fucking kidding me!?!?!?!?

The mystery shim

I thought I would finish this article at Part III, but it is getting too long and there is still a lot to do.

 

Stay tuned for the thrilling conclusion.