When it comes to traveling, Romania is a fairly diverse country. While it has its share of pretty mountains of the Carpathian variety, the mountains are not overall as impressive as in the Alpine countries. Beautiful, worth a visit – not if you want to ski, to be fair, the wait for the chairlift is longer than the descent downhill – but hardly unique. We have rolling hills on which we make wine, plateaus, plains, the whole lot. A bit of seaside with not the best beaches. A bunch of caves and lakes and rivers and such, a bit of everything. What is more unique, and a more special place, is the Danube Delta. This should be of particular interest to Americans as you do not have any significant wetlands of your own.
The Danube is Europe’s second-longest river, starting from the Black Forest (allegedly) of Germany, going through Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest and Belgrade, flowing southeast for 2900 km before emptying into the Black Sea. From Black to Black. The Danube delta is, coincidentally, the second largest river delta in Europe, and the best preserved on the continent. With the lagoons of Razim–Sinoe, located south of the main delta, the total area of the Danube Delta is around 5200 km2 or 2000 sq miles. The Razim–Sinoe lagoon complex is geologically and ecologically related to the delta proper and the combined territory is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For more on this basic, boring data, you can read Wikipedia.
The short version: the Danube splits into 3 main arms connected by a web of canals, lakes, ponds with occasional solid ground. It has been inhabited for a long time, and most parts of it are only accessible by boat. Basically, a whole lot of wetland, with huge biological diversity. A significant part of the locals are lipovans, Old Believers, mostly of Russian ethnic origin, and they have a unique local culture, shaped by the delta and their origin. Their food is different as well, and very diverse, you can eat anything there, as long as it is mostly fish.
The disadvantages of wetland wilderness? Mosquitoes. Lots and lots of mosquitoes. But they are mostly active a couple of hours before and after sunset, so if you avoid them in that period you’ll do fine. And anyway, a mosquito bite isn’t the end of the world. And off course, being so biologically diverse, other creepy crawlies.
The advantages? Lots of birds, if you like watching; lots of fish, if you like fishing and/or eating. Peace, quiet, and messing about in boats. Speedboats to cover ground, rowboats for the peace and quiet bit. That is, if you can row. I cannot row that well and one time I rowed into a bunch of reeds, and the mosquitoes who were probably dormant during the high noon became undormant and swarmed me. But that is besides the point.
The speedboat spoils the silence a bit, but I like it, as the boat goes from one canal to the other, occasionally over a lake, and you never know what is beyond the next bend. The banks are covered with trees and reeds and cattail and many other plants, the water surface is covered with waterlilies and pelicans and swans and such.
There are many ways to find accommodation in the Delta. For the hard-core fishermen, the tent is where it’s at. You can camp next to the best fishing spots, to be up at the crack of dawn, walk 10 feet and start fishing. Brave the rain and the mosquitoes if you must, but the catch is what matters. Please do not leave any trash behind. Yeah … that sounds… great.
On the other end of the spectrum, there are the newly built 5 star resorts, where the comfort is great but, in my view, it lacks the authentic feel of the delta. You can go to a 5 star resort anywhere. And anyway, they are ecologically unfriendly and owned by corrupt politicians (otherwise they could not have built them there) and should not be encouraged.
Well where do you stay? Glad you asked. The last time I went with a group of friends we rented a pontoon boat. This is a largish houseboat moored on the side of a canal in the middle of the action. It has sufficient comforts, with keeping the wild feel of the Delta. There are no villages nearby or other settlements, so you have to bring everything you want with you. There’s no popping over to the store, the bar or whatever.
The mobile coverage and internet is spotty at best, so you may be able to send an occasional email if you must but it is a good place to disconnect.
It is an all-inclusive affair, which means all the meals are covered – I hope you like fish, fresh caught that very day – and also the drinks – this being water, Romanian plum brandy and serviceable but not that good red and white wine. Anything else you must bring with you.
The bedrooms and bathrooms are small, very small, but clean and with running water, which is all you need really. There is a common room which is large enough and outdoor seating on top of the boat. All one could ask for to spend a few quiet days.
Speedboats and drivers are also included, so the days are spend going about canals and lakes, watching birds, fishing if you like (personally I don’t and also worms creep me out as a kid I asked people to put the worm on the hook for me) and occasionally to a deserted beach or two –either on the sea or on some island on the Razim lake.
The beaches are something you won’t find in Romania’s mostly overcrowded sea-side towns. Off course, empty beaches are not for everyone. No people, no beach bars, just a stretch of sand and the sea, unmanaged, full of seashells and twigs and driftwood.
And if you are lucky feral horses (although don’t get to close)
The nights are spent – well however you like on the boat. Mostly talking, or with various games and such if one wants. And star-gazing, if that’s your thing, great place for it, being in the middle of the delta, far away from settlements, with little light pollution. I don’t have a picture of the stars, but take my word for it.
The trip is not so much exciting or as it is restful, a good way to just get away from the noise of hectic everyday life and clear one’s head.
Rooskie Coonasses?
That’s spelled Kunaski.
I wasn’t expecting feral horses.
BLM has their USAID grift too.
Consider Blue Danube, Delta Dawn, but there’s only one song for the montage’s Pie’s vacation
https://youtu.be/SQUeQOIlcDM
I almost started writing a movie script for an action movie in the Delta with a friend… about some evil corporations wanting to drill for oil and a quiet local former french foreign legion who decides to fight and finds love on the way. We called it “The Song of the Pelican”
This sounds great.
there were a lot of speedboat chases and one helicopter.
Let me know when you have a release date.
Starring Julia Roberts and Denzel Washington?
Gator is available on Tubi
This was fun.
Thank you, Pie.
Stars pic but this one has been digitally enhanced in some way or other
https://photos.app.goo.gl/haayg2mRpfyEQHK7A
One not enhanced
https://photos.app.goo.gl/n786cotGcVmjiytF7
Off course, empty beaches are not for everyone. No people, no beach bars, just a stretch of sand and the sea, unmanaged, full of seashells and twigs and driftwood.
Sounds awesome to me.
alas as the years pass and tourism encroaches there are fewer and fewer empty ones
It’s hard to perv watch pretty girls if the beach is deserted.
so what is the official opinion on omelettes and caviar for breakfast?
Omelettes are always a cromulent breakfast choice. Never had caviar, so can’t comment on that.
Caviar is something I want to try, but I don’t want do the shitty stuff in a can that is at the store, but also don’t want to pay a crazy price, so I don’t know where to start.
go to the caspic sea and poach a sturgeon.
CPRM:
I’ve had roe plenty of times, but that’s not caviar. I’ve seen it on menus in a couple of places, but the price point was above my interest level.
PieInTheSky:
Why would I go all the way there, when there’s perfectly fine Lake Erie Sturgeon to catch?
Are you serving mimosas?
Champers, hold the OJ.
Sounds good, when will mine be ready?
*insert Sean’s avatar here*
Caviar and coddled eggs for the win.
Louisiana might beg to differ.
Nice write up, Pie!
It’s always hard to tell with shifty foreign types, but he may be yanking your chain.
I chuckled. Pie’s humor tends to be quite dry.
/Florida enters the chat
My yard has entered the chat.
Atmospheric riverPineapple express since this weekend.Suthen is both agog and magog.
Great write-up. Beautiful.
The best kind of trip!
Your description reminds me a lot of alleppy in Kerala. Except, that area is more over commercialized with tourism. We also had a house boat, nothing much to do on it but relax and drink.
What’s alleppy?
Gary?
Five-star resort it is, then.
Or, if you play your cards right, a Seven Star resort!
Thanks Pie! It looks like fun.
OT – Speaking of nature I was reading this over lunch – https://archive.fo/aRnVC
Government Workers Who Have Lost Their Jobs Worry About Their Housing
The sob story in the lede is some 27 year old who made $87k as a “community engagement specialist” for the NPS. I assume he worked at the Delaware Water Gap National Park. First – live on the PA side and cut your costs in half. Second, pay me $87k plus federal benefits and I’ll work there.
Boo hoo, welcome to the lives of private sector employees. And why the hell would you take on a $2,700/month mortgage on a salary of $87K?
stupid is as stupid does
Because at the very bottom of the article it notes he is married and “his husband” is an attorney. I can’t remember if he has loans…
I have worked with many young lawyers. They all talk about being student-loan poor.
Huh. Would have thought it was a laid off employee losing their government provided housing in remote locations.
And why the hell would you take on a $2,700/month mortgage on a salary of $87K?
Because government jobs are permanent, and the salary only goes up.
Nice article, Pie. That sounds like a great trip.
My old man grew up right next to the California Delta, and I have fond memories going down there as a kid.
Would do this trip, thanks Pie!
You might say that Pie was born on a bayou and then went rolling on a river.
I put a lot of credence into that theory.
No pics of Swamp Castle?
There are pics – it sank.
what?
The answer you seek is here, Pie: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNaXdLWt17A