So this is the LATE, VERY LATE continuation of a gun display cabinet build. In Part 1, I laid out the initial cuts for the large pieces that make up the upper and lower cabinet boxes. Here are the detail of putting the boxes together.
The first step is to plane all the pieces to the same thickness. They are pretty uniform already, but there are still some minor warps and cups and planing will get some of that out. I bought 4/4 lumber – that means the lumber should be 1″ thick. But as you can see on the left, it was only ~0.82″ thick. That’s because what I got is called S2S, ‘surface 2 sides’, so it’s already been planed on the two surfaces; for S2S lumber, the final width must be >= 13/16 in. Since I wanted the final width to be 3/4″, I didn’t have a lot to play with to “grind it out” to borrow a phrase from Forged in Fire, so in the end there was still some warp, and more importantly some cupping. That makes edge joining a bit less clean and lining up top and bottom boxes a bit more challenging. But that’s what I get for using cheap wood.With everything planed down to 3/4″, it’s time to get the sides assembled. For the top box (where the long guns will live), since the boards I got are wide enough for the depth of the box, it’s simple – just cut each piece to length, accounting for the rabbet joinery when cutting the top and bottom pieces. For the bottom box – display for handguns and cabinet for e.g. ammo etc storage – it’s a bit more complicated since I need to edge join two pieces for the full cabinet depth and also cut some angles for the display portion. Here, I choose to use biscuit joinery. With biscuit joinery, you just cut slots in the edges of the boards to join and insert pre-made (or you can make your own) ‘biscuits’ in the slots. With a careful selection of pieces and alignment, a generous application of glue, and some finish work, you can make strong, nearly invisible, joints. To ‘tighten’ up the joints, I used some wood glue and saw dust mixed together to fill in gaps in the joint. The sides get a lot of sanding and, since there will be the ‘angled’ display, an angled cut, to make the final sides.
For the bottom, I also need to build 3 ‘shelves’. One for the bottom, one for the middle (which will, together with the bottom, form the storage cabinet), and one for the top that will merge into the angled cuts on the sides and support the top cabinet box. Of the 3 shelves, given the wood I have in my hand, two (top and bottom) will be from plywood and the middle from edge joined poplar (using biscuits, just as described above for the sides of the bottom box). The top ‘shelf’ will be almost entirely covered by the upper cabinet, so doesn’t need to be ‘pretty’, similarly for the bottom shelf, it will be mostly concealed. The middle shelf, on the other hand, will be visible since it’s for display and will have a glass door – that’s why I used ‘real’ lumber there. Of course for the top and bottom plywood shelves, the edge will be exposed, so I needed a way to ‘cover’ up the plywood. On can use glue-on edge banding, but I elected to take some hard wood in hand and make my own banding. I did that using specialty router bits to route a groove in the the plywood and a matching tongue in the hardwood to generate enough glue surface for a strong bond. Again with some sanding, the plywood and banding can merge almost seamlessly – less seamless here since I used some pieces of red oak I had left over for the edge ‘bands’. Once everything was glued up and solid, just trim the shelves to size, including a matching angle for the top shelf. Again account for the depth of any rabbets and dadoes when cutting the shelves to size so that we reach the correct final width of the box.
OK, so all the parts are together, now to put our wood into the boxes. The first step is to layout the rabbets and dadoes. For the top box, just need to make a rabbet on the side pieces with a depth of 1/2 the thickness and a width equal the thickness of the top and bottom pieces. In addition, need to make a rabbet to hold the 1/2″ plywood back. I’ll often use 1/4″ plywood for backs but given the large size and attachments for the barrel rest, I used 1/2″ here.
While the top box is relatively easy, we all know getting into the bottom box takes a bit more work. I need dadoes for the top and middle shelf, a rabbet for the top shelf, and the 1/2″ rabbet around the back for the plywood insert. So I lined up the back pieces to draw out the lines for the dadoes and make sure they line up. I used the router for all the cuts rather than the table saw dado blade, so it was a little more of a pain to get the width right so that the shelves fit snugly. I set up the fence for the first cut, but the shelves were a little too snug – better than too loose at this stage – so just tweak the fence over a fraction and shave a bit more off until one has a good fit. Do a dry fit, make sure it’s mostly square – it is mostly, but the cup means it’s a bit out – this will translate to the top not being perfectly symmetric on the bottom when I finally connect everything. With everything set up as best I can, do the glue up on the bottom.
That’s that for this installment. It’s looking OK, but still a lot of work to do. Next will be constructing the doors and the ancillary pieces – rifle butt and barrel rests, hinge selection, finishing work. Glass. Hint – Don’t make the doors too thin. When you make the doors thin, it’s very tough to find easy hinges to use. I have most everything done already except the hinges and glass, so maybe it will be a smaller break between rev01 and rev02. Until next time.
Looks great so far.
Animal, I was out of town and got behind on my reading, but I wanted to tell you the Legionnaire is great.
I look forward to the next one.
Thanks!
Looks fake. Who has a garage that clean?
Right! My first thoughts as well.
Half the battle for any project is simply having a place that has enough room to properly tackle it.
I’m very jealous.
I recognized a shovel, after that everything else was stuff I’d seen at Home Depot but was too complicated for me.
Definitely not this guy.
I just make sure that the camera angle misses the disaster pile corner. Appearances can be deceiving, especially when one still needs to get 2 vehicles in said garage. That forces me, beyond all will, to clean and neaten a bit every day after working on something. It’s horrible.
“Welp, that’ll have to do.”
*drops hammer on floor, heads for beer fridge*
“But you had a box of screws…”
What do you think I used?
the disaster pile corner
You’re supposed to dump the dead hookers somewhere else.
Me, what good is a garage if I cannot park inside?
Do not go in my tool shed though…
I waited a long time to have a place to hide my car from summer and winter.
Me too, I can’t go back to parking outside like a poor person.
We have one of three vehicles in the garage. There was one brief moment of time when all three vehicles made it into the three-stall garage.
The last winter I was in MN, I had 4 cars in a three car garage. Helped that two of them were a Spitfire and a Beetle.
Still, it was an impressive bit of garage Tetris.
“Tool shed” – that’s one of the next projects to build so I can move all the other crap out of the way and have more room to store projects without having to clean up and put everything away all the time. A solar powered tool shed with a rain cachement system. That’s the ticket.
As it stands, my garage has two cars and three bicycles in it. There’s quite a bit of stuff that I still would like to spend time to clear out portions of it though.
Our garage is deep enough you could put a third car crossways across the back.
That is now mostly the home gym. Which is just a joy in the summer.
We’ve got a little room in the upstairs that has a Bowflex and a stationary recumbent bike in it. They are rarely used in the summer. I also do have a trainer I can set up (usually in the basement), I just much prefer riding out on the roads with wind and sun.
That is looking real nice.
I wish I could do “pretty”, but I have never been good at that.
If I made one, it would be square, straight and functional, but I have no creative flair.
If I made one – it would look janky and collapse under its own weight.
Mine would weigh 200 lbs.
I have a tendency to overbuild.
Where is Tres?
I absolutely suck at finish work.
I enjoy these DIY projects. Thanks for sharing.
The project looks great so far, and you did a nice job writing this, what with all the photos.
Joinery is one of those crafts that’s also an artform.
Why does everything nice have to be so complicated?
So much talent and artistry distributed amongst the Glibs.
Some of us got left out but we can admire the skills of our friends. Great work, PM, thanks
Agreed. Of the traditional post-retirement activities, woodworking is definitely out for me. The lack of space and tools are solvable. The lack of aptitude is not.
That’s not gonna pass any safe storage law…
Well, it’s not a Governor’s Cabinet.
That is some nice work. I really like the attention to detail that was shown. Is the type of jointing used for each project and section of the project based on the appearance and strength needed?
What of the traditional wood based types of joints are the strongest?
For me, six inch deck screws.
That’s my go to along with steel brackets and structural screws. This is why I don’t make cabinets or at least woodwork that looks good. Everything I build looks like a treasure chest without the visual appeal.
This guy gets it.
Trick question, depends what direction of forces are applied.
Mortise and tenon is almost always a strong joint.
Is the type of jointing used for each project and section of the project based on the appearance and strength needed?
To some extent, the answer is yes. But, there will generally be at least a few options to join the wood and have the strength you want. Picking between those options depends on what you are capable of doing and what style you want in the final appearance.
Facebook feeds me short videos from Dusty Lumber and the guy has serious joinery skills. I watch in amazement at some of the joints me makes with a perfect fit.
Pretty much form and function, though in my case, not carefully considered, just a sort of ‘gut feeling’. Strangely enough, a 6 in deck screw is often times the right answer from a strength perspective, but just right out from a form/appearance perspective. Try to avoid having visible screw heads on display surfaces. Of course you can make it decorative element too by recessing the screws and making plugs, either matched to the wood or in contrasting grain/color for accent. Usually I try to avoid fasteners where they’d be visible though.
For edge joining, you need some sort of mechanical connection, there’s so little glue surface. You need to increase the glue surface and provide a mechanical connection or the joint will just fail at the slightest bump. You could use a tongue and groove for that sort of work rather than the biscuits, but you need to do something like that.
Hard to go wrong with mortise and tenon joinery, especially for face frames and the like where you are joining end grain to long grain. I use mortise and tenon (exposed) for the doors in the next revision. “Hidden” mortise and tenon can provide a cleaner look, but require a bit more skill for the mortise – or at least better tooling like a mortising jig or drill press with mortise bits. “By hand” it is a bit more difficult. And I actually like the exposed contrast in the joint in some cases.
Thanks,
I saw some jig at one of the home stores that was essentially a extreme angle drill guide for making pocket hole cabinet joints.
I think it was something like this.
https://www.kregtool.com/shop/pocket-hole-joinery/pocket-hole-jigs/
I’m used to working with metal, so most of my projects have a nice recessed fastener or button head screws.
Yes, pocket holes are pretty good, especially if you combine with glue. Unfortunately, they are pretty unsightly. Again, you can make plugs (Kreg will happily sell you an angle plug drilling guide). I think some old school wood workers frown on the ease with which joinery can be done with something like that and I only use pocket holes for interior portions of building cabinet boxes where they will be completely hidden from view. You also need thick enough elements for pocket holes, or the screws come out the face of your work surface and the joint is weaker since you have less penetration (we’re not doing phrasing anymore) on the face side of the joint. Generally, pocket hole joinery, to me anyway, is useful for hidden stock 3/4″ or larger (1/2″ at the smallest) and largely for quick assembly of many cases – e.g. cabinets. For smaller, one off sorts of projects, I prefer to use something else.
Thanks. I’ll be making or modifying some cabinets for my garage at some indeterminate point in the future as soon as I get out of zoning board purgatory.
I’ve used the Kreg for years. All my garage cabinets, shoe storage, etc. Strong, dead simple and reliable.
But definitely not for fine furniture.
That’s what i’m looking for. Strong, rugged, and simple.
Timeloose is Julie Brown confirmed
I did it for Johnny.
“Real Dumb”
My wife likes this song. Do you think that means anything.
‘While the top box is relatively easy, we all know getting into the bottom box takes a bit more work.’
Phrasing?
Tell us more above tongue and groove…
Seriously though, nice looking box. Seems to have plenty of room.
Not helping, Lack.
At least I didn’t say anything about his long gun.
“nice looking box”
Phrasing?
“That is a nice piece of black ash, right there!”
Looks excellent. Part of being a good carpenter is working with imperfections. I think you nailed it (so to speak)!
I look forward to seeing the completed piece!
Nice box.
So… I just did an online payment to American Express. I use it for all my gasoline, and I have been moving stuff to the house with the truck and the Suburban. I have also been using it at Home Depot and Lowe’s.
My online billpay very helpfully informed me this bill is much higher than average.
No shit. Talk to Brandon.
Might have been cheaper to rent a box truck and do it all in one shot…
The battle cry of woodworkers since time immemorial.
Great work, PM. It’s looking great so far.
Yup, I bought a bunch for cheap, thinking I’d never need that many. Almost instantly I found out I didn’t have enough… You can overcome that by carefully balancing weights.
Ditto!
Agreed! I ended up buying more pipe for my pipe clamps. Now I can make any length from 2 feet to…I guess 15 feet?
The woodworking posts are top notch just for the phrasing.
Advice on the clamp portions? I looked into it several years ago, got lost in which clamps fittings to get and just sort of … wandered off and kept using my crappy, small, underwhelming stash of clamps.
I have lengths of 2 feet, 4 feet, and 5 feet. You lose a little with the clamp ends so the 4 foot length is good for 3 feet and less. For 4 foot lengths, I use the 5 foot pipe, 6 foot I use the 4 and the 2 foot lengths, 7 feet the 5 and 2 footers, 8 feet the 4 and 5 footers, and so on. I got regular black schedule 40 pipe from Home Depot and a few connectors to thread them all together as needed. I can manage a 9 foot length with one hand and turn the clamp with the other. That sounds like a euphemism.
Speaking of burning dinosaurs, it’s time to go load another car on the trailer and bring it down to the house.
Might have been cheaper to rent a box truck and do it all in one shot…
Not really. And the logistics are not favorable.
Whenever I see the use of biscuit fasteners, I have to make a joke about woodworkers’ terrible cooking.
Do you suppose Brits call them scone fasteners?
Nope, Cookies.
Digital caliper has been a surprise treasure. I don’t know how I lived without one before.
For as inexpensively as they can be had these days, every DIYer should have one.
Absolutely. I have a cheap one from Harbor Freight? that my dad got me years ago. You’d be surprised how many things you want to know the thickness or girth of.
🧐
You can pry my Mitutoyo dial calipers from my cold dead hands.
Vernier or GTFO
jk; I have a 12″ Mitutoyo dial I bought off a coworker for $30 IIRC about 15 years ago. Great caliper. And old enough to be housed in a sturdy wood case. But my 6″ Fowler digital is the day-to-day workhorse.
I have a cheap aluminum one that’s really surprisingly accurate.
I’m thinking of picking up a second cheap one in plastic so as not to scratch stuff.
Random.
Someone’s angling for a Darwin award.
Watch till the end, there’s an alligator under the hot girl!
Insert obligatory Archer reference.
Also, look into getting a digital thickness scale for your planer. I bought one from Wixey that was easy to install, and gives readouts to the thousandth. I have a different Dewalt planer so check to make sure it will work with yours. I think they’re like $60 on Amazon.
I do knot have the skills of discipline for this kind of thing.
Maybe you should branch out – establish new roots as it were.
Posting oak leaves on a woodworking story? Quis custodiet ipsos custodes…
Swiss doesn’t take any flak from anyone.
I tried woodworking but I got board.
Do knot start this shit again. Swiss will narrow gaze you.
Fuck me I read Rebels comment like 4 times and just now noticed it. I need some caffeine or a nap.
Meh, his bark is worse than his bite.
A little wood filler…some paint…no one will ever know.
Oh no! After 7 seasons, Samantha Bee’s show has been canceled! Where will we ever find another late night “comedy” show that makes fun of Republicans? How will I ever get through a Big Bang rerun without having to mute the TV during one of her commercials?
https://pjmedia.com/news-and-politics/rick-moran/2022/07/26/samantha-bees-full-frontal-cancelled-after-seven-seasons-n1615791
My God. 7 seasons. The horror. I how many others fall to the wayside without Trump to latch onto.
I can’t believe it lasted 7 seasons. Although there was a heyday during the Trump years when even CNN had viewers.
From the article, looks like there will be others. Apparently this type of show is no longer popular.
I miss Conan and that’s about it. Brilliant show back when they had the Masturbating Bear and whatnot.
I’ve heard that Gutfeld is cleaning the clocks of all those other hacks.
I’m not familiar with his new show but Redeye was good. Even John Bolton who’s a sack of shit son of a bitch managed to be likable on that show.
I’ve seen it a few times – it’s pretty good.
Redeye got me to watching Fox. Flicking channels one late night about a decade ago: “Hey, this is funny!”
I miss Craig Ferguson.
Good, and I hope she takes that idiot from the Daily Show with her.
The two most insufferable blatherers on TV right now.
The View haz a sad.
Oh God I forgot about them.
There’s a fine line between clever and stupid.
/spinaltap
Oh no, what will her vast legion of viewers do now?
That’s still way too many people watching any of those shows.
I refuse to believe Colbert has that many viewers. That show is an insult to intelligent life.
It’s definitely due to lead-in from the elderly falling asleep in front of their TVs in the middle of hate watching the new Hispanic Magnum PI.
I’m waiting for the replacement. “The Bee: Full Babylon” has a nice ring to it.
Where is Grosspatzer?
Chess robot grabs and breaks finger of seven-year-old opponent
https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2022/jul/24/chess-robot-grabs-and-breaks-finger-of-seven-year-old-opponent-moscow
Because who doesn’t want to be right up against a small industrial robot.
He probably deserved it.
ALL HAIL SKYNET
First that Google AI thing, and now this. It has begun.
Scruffy is correct, that little weasel probably deserved it. If he pulled that shit in Washington Square Park, he’d get a lot more than a broken finger.
WRT to woodworking, I am in awe of people who can handle sharp objects without winding up in the ER, bonus if they can create something as cool as the Putrid One. I am forbidden by She Who Must Be Obeyed from handling sharp objects, excepting razor blades because she doesn’t care for beards. I want to look and feel my very best for the weekend shindig, so I decided to use the convenient trimmer on my Harry’s blade to get a perfectly straight edge on the old sideburns. Note to self: do not repeat this experiment, your hand is not steady enough to apply the proper pressure. I now am cultivating the look of a Sweeney Todd customer.
LOL!
I bought a Parker straight edge barber razor on a whim because my barber used one to trim my beard line.
After using it a few times, I am no longer butchering myself, but a steady hand is a must.
Meh. Razors are for the weak. Real men pluck any unneeded beard hairs.
In today’s episode of“Oh, that Kamala!”, our hero practices her phone sex script.
(Where the fuck is that meteor, already?)
“blue suit”
How does she know? Is she an optometrist?
There she goes, othering the colorblind again.
Do the people from other countries go along with this, or are they “OMG these Americans”?
The USA is Blutarsky.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gi7q5zZfSU8
OMG she actually said what was in the description.
SMDH
I’m guessing its some kind of deaf sensitivity thing. Of course, it makes her sound genuinely retarded. So she’s got that going for her.
Blind, right? But I am not sure describing what you look like to the visually impaired is something that helps at all.
Deaf, blind, whatever.
This isn’t about helping the visually impaired. This is about stroking your own ego.
It’s that woke introduction bs that started in the tech industry.
When the fuck did MPH become a post nominal letters?
New conspiracy theory: The globalists plan on robbing us of the power of humor to belittle them by becoming so self-satirical that there’s literally nothing we can say that would be worse than what they actually say. Those dastardly bastards!
Hobbies are important
THAT’s the kind of absurdity I love!
Hilarious, about time us gardeners got in on it.
As far as I’m concerned, the Ukrainian government can go fuck itself.
https://www.newsweek.com/tulsi-gabbard-rand-paul-placed-list-russian-propagandists-ukraine-1727831
And by extension, the US government as well.
It’s an unfair list and they would have done well to be more careful with their accusations but I can’t blame the Ukrainians too much. They’re just desperate and flailing around.
I doubt the Ukrainian government would produce anything of this sort that wasn’t vetted through their State and CIA handlers.
This is the US regime trying to discredit and silence the domestic critics of our proxy war in Ukraine.
^^^^^^
It just looks more sympathetic if we tell them it was authored by the Ukrainians instead of the CEOs of Lockheed and Raytheon.
The Ukrainian regime was just as repugnant well before the current war, when they worked with the US Deep State to sabotage Trump’s presidential campaign and his administration.
My goal would to be on the Ukrainian list of Russian propagandists, and the Russian list of Ukrainian propagandists.
As I mention above, this is actually a US list of dissidents.
Confirmation from international sources that Gabbard and Paul are Russian assets. Call the DOJ, and ban both of them from public office.
Gabbard and Paul sounds like a reputable brand of English fish sauce.
Alas, my grandfather’s “Lectro-Saw” finally died so I guess I’ll finally bight the bullet and start collecting cordless power tools.
Any brand recommendations?
If you’re fat in the wallet, it’s hard to beat Festool.
^^^^
Also if need to leave no dust behind.
*shakes wallet upside down, crumpled IOU falls out*
Sometimes I wish I had more debt. Paying 10 cents on the dollar for past purchases seems like a win. Inflation, bring it on.
How much do you use them and what do you want to use them for? Ryobi get recs for occasional/homeowner use. DeWalt, Milwaukee, or Makita make decent professional level cordless tools with a range of tools with each specializing in different areas to some extent.
Nothing of this magnitude. Very basic stuff like shelves, The last “major” projects for me were building the workbench and Lily’s enclosure in the garage with its associated dog door.
Milwaukee and Makita (LXT Brushless) are decent choices.
I’m not a fan of DeWalt.
If you are not a contractor or using your tools every weekend, then definitely Ryobi.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Lithium-Ion-4-0-Ah-Battery-2-Pack-and-Charger-Kit-PSK006/315424283
And Home Depot has been running this deal all summer. Two 4ah batteries with a free tool.
DeWalt has the better rep, but I’ve had Ryobi recommended by professional plumbers, handymen, etc.
I used Ryobi for years, When I upgraded to Milwaukee three or four years ago it was one of those “why didn’t I do this earlier” battery life, power and tool construction were all noticeably better. That said Ryobi appears to have made some upgrades themself in the last few years and batteries have improved across the board.
I’m not sure anyone makes bad stuff anymore. Besides, there are only a couple manufacturers left – I gotta believe there is a lot of tech sharing between the brands.
Yeah, I think Ryobi and Milwaukee are owned by the same company.
The few pros I know agree – Milwaukee is the way to go.
I have almost no cordless tools, other than a DeWalt hammer drill, so can’t offer anything there. I was planning on getting more, but the DeWalt battery went south and a few glances at the cost of getting good quality replacement batteries – a couple of batteries ~ the cost of a new tool – I sort of soured on it and just buy corded. I suppose I could buy Festool stuff. Then the cost of the battery might be a fraction of the cost of replacing the tool….
Amazon sells cheap Chinese knockoff compatible batteries for Dewalt. Seem to work fine.
I’ve had decent luck with Milwaukee, haven’t burned through a battery yet and been using them daily for years. I burned up a multitool but the drills and saws have all held up.
I don’t use them as much as Hyp, but my Milwaukee stuff is great.
Recommend the brushless motors.
For occasional use I would at least look at Harbor Freight. They’ve been expanding and improving their cordless tools lines the last couple years. I can’t speak to longevity, but they certainly appear to be decent tools. And they have three different lines at three different price points.
That said, I’m a DeWalt guy. Still have the 14.4 drill I bought 20-ish years ago. It’s been dropped many times over the years and is still working great. I’ve recently started moving over to 20V.
I have quite a few DeWalt tools. They’re good enough to show up in contractor’s work boxes, but not the best for professional use.
The issue is batteries.
Milwaukee is where I would lean based on most of their stuff being average to excellent.
If you settle on one brand you can buy bare tools with no battery and settle on one type of battery and chargers. So their M18 line is versatile, but getting old. My concern would be they feel the need to up the “voltage” to stay competitive.
Give me cords or give me … I don’t know what.
I haven’t met a cordless drill that can match my 50yo Craftsman corded drill for torque and power.
Hello all:
There is a Forum post for the SP Celebration in the Meetup folder. Might be a good place to coordinate rides, timing, and other items.
I just though I would let you all know.
Oh good. Were we supposed to have received some sort of acceptance/notification with the address of the venue? And if we haven’t does that mean we weren’t invited?
Check out the last link before Old Man Music in the Saturday AM Lynx.
Ah. I assumed that was the coffee shop in question, since they put swill on their sandwiches.
That I don’t know about. I believe there was a public announcement in a previous post, buried in the verbiage. I was asked to send a email to RSVP in the original pinned post, I did, then I received an acknowledgment.
Can we get a woodworking out of an RV while making cheese article to really get the best of puns and phrasing possible?
Great work putrid! *eyes pile of wood*
What, no mixed drinks?
I assumed we were having mixed drinks while reading it.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3163819513866249
Heh.
It’s gone already